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Have you felt burned out over wicks as you begin your soy candle making journey? Maybe I can help spark a flame to the wick mystery for you.
Wicks can be confusing when starting out as a soy candle maker.
“Which wick should I use for soy wax?”
“What’s all the flame about lead free wicks? Paper core? Zinc core? Braided?”
“Why can’t anyone make wicks easier to understand?”
Are all questions I had when I started making candles back in ’05.
First of all, what IS a wick exactly, and what does it do? The wick is a flammable material in the candle that is used to illuminate surroundings. In order for the flame to continue burning and shining light, it needs a fuel. For the sake of this website, we talk about soy wax as candle fuel. I’ll get into other natural candle fuels later, but for now, we will focus on soy. The flammable material (the wick) and the candle fuel (the wax) have a symbiotic relationship. They need each other in order to work as a candle. So, the wick is what holds the flame that in turn, lights its environment. Basically, it’s the most important component of the soy candle. The most commonly used wick material is braided cotton. Within the braided cotton wicking world, we have various models to choose from. There are paper wicks and even wooden wicks that can be used. I stick to flat braided cotton, because I find it is best for soy.
The wick that I prefer to use in my candle making is called a “pretabbed” HTP. Pretabbed wicks already have the metal clip on one end that holds the wick upright in the container. The letters stand for High Temperature Paper. HTP wicks are ‘flat braided’ with smaller paper fibers entwined throughout the braid. This makes them stiff. They don’t have a core, or something in the center of them to hold them up. They are designed to bend at the tip when burning. This basically means that the wick is burning itself up within the flame. It produces a cleaner burning candle, because it doesn’t produce a lot of smoke and it helps the candle be somewhat “self trimming” because the spent wick is burned up within the flame. The wick won’t get overly long, so it won’t produce needless smoke, or a flame two inches tall.
What are all the numbers concerning wicks? The easiest thing to remember is the larger the number, the thicker the wick. Most suppliers who sell the HTP wicks have the size of wick (usually something like HTP41 or HTP105) with the size of container suggested for that wick. The smallest numbers are used for tea light containers. They go up to sizes that are used for containers as large as 5 to 6 inches in diameter. Don’t forget to use your Wick Target to determine the diameter of the container you will be using so that you can choose the correct wick size to get burn pool that goes to the edge of the container, ensuring an even burn all the way down.
Lead? Zinc? What’s the smoke about these two metals and what are they doing in wicks? Zinc is used in some wicks, to make them stay straight as they are burning. We NEVER use zinc cored wicks in soy candles. The wicks that have zinc cores do not burn well with soy. However, allow me to shed light on the zinc/lead mystery for you.
Years ago, manufacturers used lead wires in wicks to help them stay straight as the candles burned. It was found out that lead puts toxins in the air as it’s burned. Now NO American candle maker uses wicks with lead in them, and they haven’t for over 20 years. Lead cored wicks aren’t sold here in America. When you see an American candle company telling you they use lead free wicks, it’s only a gimmick to get you to buy their candles. They are preying on your ignorance of the truth that lead cored wicks are not used here. There are, however, some candles that come from over seas that still may have lead in the wicks. About 2% of candles in stores may have them. This is another reason it’s nice to make your own candles, because then you know exactly what’s in them.
I hope this informative article has helped light your way to the best wick to use in your soy candle making.
Pretabbed HTP wick suppliers:
The materials we will be using are:
- Any 8 oz square candle container will do.
- Cotton braid wick (for soy wax) sized to fit containers up to 4 inches in diameter
- Wick adhesive Tacky Wax
- Candle fragrance oil
- 8 liquid oz of Natural Soy wax
- 2 different colors of Candle coloring
- 5 inch in diameter pot pie tin (to hold your candle steady when you pour)
We will separate our melted wax into three batches (note, for this project, I use red and blue – you can use any two colors you wish. However, remember, they will blend as the candle is burned, so try to use primary colors which will blend into a nice third color. The blue and red turn purple in this candle.)
One will be dyed blue and one dyed red. We will have a white layer with no color in the middle for contrast. When your candle melts, the red and blue will mix to form a purple layer on the top of your candle. We will need to stagger our batches so that we have time in between the layers for them to solidify before we pour the next layer, and still keep the others warm. Put your first color out to cool while keeping the other two batches warm in hot water just so they stay liquid, they don’t have to be hot, only liquid. About 120 to 125 degrees is good. Stir extremely well after adding the color to your colored batches to ensure it dissolves completely into the wax.
Wick your container, using the wick target to find the center of your glass. Smear a pea sized piece of Tacky Wax onto the end of the wick clip. Use a craft stick to gently tap the wick clip in place, or to move the wick to center it, if needed. Put the warning label on the bottom of the glass. Don’t put the wick centering stick or bar on the wick as we’d normally do. Since you will be tipping the glass to pour the wax in, the stick will get in the way. We will be able to gently pull the wick to the center as the first and second layers harden.
Place the wicked container on its side in the pie tin. This will be our first layer position. It doesn’t matter how steep the angle of the container is. There are no two alike when layering this way. Each is unique. Have fun with it.
After preparing your first color of wax, add your fragrance and let it cool till it’s cloudy. This project does best when you pour the wax as cloudy as possible, but not too thick. It helps the wax set faster for the next layer. Pour the first color into the tipped container. Do not pick up or move the container as you pour, it must be stationery at all times to get a clean diagonal line. Be careful when pouring, that you watch the rim of the container as it fills. It’s easy to over flow the container if you don’t watch closely. Fill to about ¼ to ½ inch to the rim of the container. You will only be pouring a couple to three ounces of wax in during this layer. Slightly tug on the wick to center it. Allow to harden. This is a good time to set your second color out from your heat source to cool. Add fragrance if you haven’t added it already.
Once the first layer is solid, (I use my pinky finger to gently touch the surface to see how hard it is) turn the container to the opposite side to position it for the second layer. Check your wick to see if it’s centered. If it is not, this is a good time to tug on it and center it. You may have to pull it slightly away from the first layer to get it centered. That’s ok, it won’t hurt anything. When the second color has been fragranced and cooled to the cloudy stage, pour. Again, be careful not to move the container. Fill it to ¼ to ½ inch from the top rim. You will only be pouring two to three ounces in. Be sure to center your wick as much as possible. Allow this layer to harden as the first. Set your non colored wax, which will be the white layer, out to cool. Add fragrance.
When the second layer is hard enough to stand the container upright, you will have a “V” shape of hardened wax in your container. Check to see if your wick is centered. Tug on it gently, if needed, to center it correctly.
When your third color is ready to pour, fill your container just below the rim. Again, you’ll only be pouring a few ounces into the container. Center your wick and let harden.
For a printable copy of this project, click here
Coca-Cola Candle Project
The materials we will be using are:
- 6 oz Coca Cola glass from The Dollar Tree
- Long (6 inches) cotton braid wick (for soy wax) sized to fit containers up to 2 inches in diameter
- Small container for making the ‘white fizz’
- Extra craft sticks and wick centering bars
- Wick adhesive in Tacky Wax from Michael’s
- 1 teaspoon candle scent of your choice
- Natural Soy wax, my favorite is Golden Brands 415 – total of 6 liquid oz
- Candle coloring
Melt wax; separate 3 ounces for the white fizz on top. Add dark brown candle coloring. Using the 1 oz (to 1.5 oz) scent to each 16 oz (1 pound) of wax (1:16 ratio), we need about 1 teaspoon scent for the 6 oz candle.
Wick your container, using the wick target to find the center of your glass. Smear a pea sized piece of Tacky Wax onto the end of the wick clip, use a straw for extra stability in putting the wick in. Use a craft stick to gently tap the wick clip in place, or to move the wick if needed. Put the warning label on the bottom of the glass. Place the wick wick centering bar, or craft stick with hole in it, onto the wick so you can center it when you’ve poured your candle.
After preparing your wax, add your fragrance to both the uncolored and the brown colored wax, and let the brown colored wax cool till it’s cloudy. Pour the dark layer and let it set up. Push the wick with the craft stick on it to the rim on the glass and aim at the wick clip in the center, when you are pouring the wax. Remember to center your wick before the wax solidifies.
As the wax cools and hardens, it is time to play with the white wax. No need to color, just fragrance this part. Begin stirring it every once in a while till it is the consistency of cookie dough, or cold peanut butter. Once it is ready, and the dark layer is firm, begin spooning on top of the dark layer around the wick with the extra craft sticks. Make sure to keep the wick straight as you work. Continue to pile it up to the top of the glass, but don’t heap it on top. If the wax is heaped, it will spill all over the sides when the candle is burned or melted on a warmer. Take one of the craft sticks and texturize the top to look like fizz by dobbing at the wax with the tip of a craft stick.
That’s it. Wasn’t that easy and fun? You can make the wax any color to correspond with the flavor of cola you want to create.
Ok, by now you’re thinking “Where do I get all this stuff to make these soy candles?”
I have a favorite supplier, Peak Candle Making Supplies, who carries all the waxes, wicks, dyes and fragrances, including containers, that I love. This post could be called “Today’s featured Supplier” too!
They have a decent starter kit that includes everything you’ll need to begin your own ‘candle therapy’ for around $70, plus shipping. So for under $100 you will be on your way to becoming a master chandler yourself!
I am not an affiliate or getting any kick back from this recommendation. I’m only showing you the best items on the market. Items that I use myself.
I use Peak because their prices are very reasonable, their customer service is superb, and their shipping time is very quick.
Stay tuned for some awesome projects that I’ve taught in my “soy easy” candle classes!
When I teach soy candle making classes, I’m always asked “HOW do you get the wick centered?”
I use a Dancing Flames Soy Candles Wick Target.
Dancing Flames Soy Candles Wick Target
A Wick Target makes it so easy to center the wick. I center the candle container over the target and put the wick adhesive on the bottom of the wick clip, then lower it onto the target. Then I will take a craft stick and gently tamp on the wick clip to make sure the adhesive has stuck onto the bottom of the glass jar.
It’s that easy!
Print your Dancing Flames Soy Candles Wick Target today! It’s free!
Yesterday I told you how to make soy candles by melting the soy wax with the “Stovetop Method”. But there is a faster way to melt soy wax. I use this method mostly in the summer, because in the desert, my house just heats up way too much by the stove top method.
Warning before we begin:
Using the Microwave to melt the wax is a bit different than using the stove top method. The biggest concern is getting the wax too hot and burning yourself. It is important to stay at the microwave and watch the wax, don’t just put it on for several minutes and walk away. That could cause the wax to become super heated and you could be splashed by boiling liquid wax as you take it out of the microwave, or worse yet, the glass could explode and cause terrible injuries.
Use a Glass Measurer 2 cups or larger. You will want to have a kitchen towel or pot holder to handle the measurer when you take it out of the microwave, because the glass can get hot.
OK let’s start making candles with the microwave method:
First, determine how much liquid wax you will need. Fill the measurer to the top with wax flakes – the wax will decrease by half in volume but will be the same weight. If you put 8 oz of wax flakes (dry measure and weighed on a scale), it will fill a 16 oz measurer to the top, but will melt to 8 oz of liquid – Add your coloring to ensure it melts and blends well with the wax, if you’re using the color chips or blocks.
Microwave the wax for 2 minutes. Stir and microwave for 30 seconds to 1 minute at a time, stirring between times. Add more wax flakes as needed to achieve the amount of liquid you desire. Keep microwaving the wax for 30 to 60 seconds at a time, stirring in between, until there are just a few small pieces still floating in the liquid. The small pieces will melt in the hot liquid. (The longer you leave the container in the microwave before letting it go for another zap the better, after a few rounds. This helps melt the wax. This will ensure you don’t get the wax too hot as well. I will leave it for 3 to 4 minutes after it has finished that round, and do a task or two around the house and then go back to it and set it for one minute more after stirring it.) Take the measurer of liquid wax out of the microwave carefully. You may need a pot holder or towel so you won’t burn your hand. Stir again and put a thermometer in to read the temperature. You don’t want your wax to be above 200*. It doesn’t have to be any hotter than 175* to melt the coloring and wax.
Prepare your containers as the wax cools, as per stove top method directions.
Note that the liquid will cool slower in the hot glass. Stir often as it cools. I have poured it into another glass liquid measurer and stirred constantly so that the wax is cooled by the cooler glass, or put it in the metal pourer and stirred real well. I also have put the metal pot with hot wax in the refrigerator for 5 minute spurts and stirred very well when I took it out. This has to be watched carefully because you could solidify your wax again if you are distracted…. I’ve done it! Do not put the glass measurer with hot wax in the refrigerator, it could make the class break with the sudden temperature change, use ONLY the metal pour pot for this technique.
Watch the temperature until it is around 130-120*. Add the fragrance at this temperature. Continue to stir occasionally until the wax becomes cloudy. Once the wax is cloudy or around 100*, but not too slushy, you can pour into your containers.
Here is the pdf file of how to make soy candles the fast way
Have you wanted to learn how to make soy candles? It is my greatest pleasure to share the ‘joy of soy’. Allow me to introduce to you the totally addicting art of making your own soy candles.
Please note, you should gather all the needed items and supplies before attempting to make your first batch of candles. Read through these instructions carefully several times so that you are familiar with the terms used.
I want to give a gentle reminder that these instructions are only for soy candle wax. Each type of wax requires different handling. I don’t want you to get frustrated by trying to use this guide with other types of wax.
This is the Stove Top Method
Equipment needed before you start:
- Pour Pot (Michaels has them for about $15)
- Double boiler or a pan for water
- Thermometer (Walmart has candy thermometers for around $4)
- Stirrer (I use wooden spoons that have long handles, I get them at the Dollar Tree)
- Small ounce measuring cup that goes to 5 ounces. (Walmart has them in the kitchen isle for about $3)
- 2 cup or 4 cup measuring cup (having both is best) GLASS ONLY
- Wick Target – exclusive to Dancing Flames, print out and laminate or put in heavy page protector.
- Scales for weighing raw wax (optional)
Supplies needed to make candles:
- Soy wax (suppliers listed below)
- Wicks sized to fit your container (based on diameter of your container, the larger the container, the thicker the wick needs to be in order to melt the wax to the outer edges of the container)
- Wick Target for your convenience in getting the wick in the right spot (PDF file available below)
- Container of your choice, heavier glass is best. Don’t get thin glass for candles. Heat can break thin glass.
- Wick adhesive (Zots at Michaels are good, $5 for 200 glue pieces, get the 3D type that are about 1/8th of an inch thick – In the glue isle, Tacky Wax is another great one – in the candle making isle of Michaels, or wick stickers from suppliers)
- Caution Labels (You can make your own or buy them, your choice) – most important, put them on ALL candles you make!
- Craft stick to help center your wicks
- Fragrance (I recommend skin safe fragrances because I know they don’t have any added ingredients. My purpose is to show you how to make the most healthful candles I can.) – suppliers listed below.
- Soy, or vegetable, based coloring, very important to keep the integrity of a natural candle – suppliers listed below.
- Paper towels for clean ups
Before You Do Anything – It is very important to gather the containers you are going to use and measure each one so you know how much liquid wax you will need in ounces. Fill each with water and then pour that water into the 2 or 4 cup measuring cup to see how much that vessel holds. Make notes of each type of container and the amount of liquid it holds so that you will know how much wax to melt. This will help you plan how much fragrance and color to use also.
I recommend washing each candle container you are going to use in HOT soapy water, rinsing it in hot water and then drying well with a lint free towel if possible. When the containers are very clean, the candle results are best. When the glass is dirty the smudges will show up after the wax as cooled.
Important Measuring Notes -
1 pound = 16 liquid ounces = 2 cups
1 cup = 8 ounces
3 teaspoons = 1 tablespoon = ½ ounce
6 teaspoons = 2 tablespoons = 1 ounce
Melting and Handling Soy Wax – Fill your double boiler to the fill line. If you don’t have a double boiler, fill a large sauce pan 1/3 full with water. It’s best to bring the water to a boil then set the pour pot into the water, being careful not to burn yourself. Watch the water level and fill as necessary. It will evaporate rather quickly.
The wax does not need to get extremely hot. It only needs to be liquefied. Heating to a temperature of 150o to 175 o F is recommended. Do not heat the wax above 200o F. If Soy Wax is held at higher temperatures for long periods of time it will discolor and/or acquire a ‘burned smell’ that will negatively affect the end result of your candles. Always use a thermometer when melting the wax. You will have a better idea how hot the wax is getting. Never leave your wax unattended when it is on the heat source. Stir the wax often, while it’s melting; this helps the wax to melt more evenly, and prevent any one part of the wax to get too hot. Just like in candy making, we don’t want to burn the sugar by letting it stay in one place long, the same goes for this wax.
Adding Color – If you would like to use color, here are some helpful hints. If you use dye chips, it’s best to melt them in with the wax to ensure complete melting and blending into the liquid wax. If you use liquid dye, it’s best to add the drops after the wax has liquefied and taken off the heat, but while still very hot to ensure even distribution. Use the manufacturer’s instructions for the coloring used. It’s always best to use coloring designed especially for soy or natural waxes, or that is soy based.
Adding Fragrance - It is best to add your fragrance when the wax has cooled a bit; Between 130 o and 120 o F. The only reason for this is to keep all the yummy smell inside the candle. Since soy solidifies at a much lower temperature than paraffin, we add it later in order for the fragrance not to dissipate with the heat of the wax. You can add your fragrance at any time before you pour your candles though. But the hotter the wax when you add fragrance, the more chance it will have to dissipate before it solidifies into the wax. Make sure to stir the wax completely to ensure that the fragrance is mixed in very well. As a rule, stir for at least 1 minute for fragrance to dissolve into the wax.
The recommended fragrance load for soy wax is ½ ounce to 1 ½ ounce of fragrance per pound, or 16 ounces LIQUID measure of wax. DO not add more than 1 ½ ounce of fragrance per pound, it will make your candle smoke, or make your candle burn oddly because it can ‘clog’ your wick, and you may have unsightly white ‘frosting’ through out your candle, or a white ring will form under the burn pool of your candle after you’ve burned it and it has solidified. The best way to help you understand this is to think of the wax as a sponge. Once it gets over saturated, the fragrance has no place to go, and pools up where ever it can. In the case of wax and fragrance, the least we use to attain the strength of smell we want is best.
Proper Wicking of Your Containers – While the wax is melting and cooling, you will have ample time to wick your containers with the wick adhesive and the appropriate size wicks. MOST important is your wick size. It is imperative that you put the right sized wick in your container for it to have a complete burn. The larger around the container is, the thicker braiding your wick must be. Also, for soy and natural wax the wick needs to be larger than what other chemical waxes use. Yet you don’t want too large of a wick either, because your candle will burn much more quickly and possibly smoke due to the large flame. This is when the wick target comes in handy. Measure the diameter of your container. Choose the proper wick for the diameter. If you don’t have a large enough wick, you can use two small wicks in the middle of the container. This is very pretty and some of the exclusive candle companies do this for the added beauty. It is a good idea to buy a few different sizes of wicks so that you have the right sized wicks on hand.
Place adhesive on the bottom of the wick. I use Zots, and Tacky Wax, feel free to use the ‘wick stickers’ that are round and fit on the bottom of the wick too. What ever you are comfortable with is ok. Some even hot glue the wick in the bottom. The reason this is important is to ensure proper placement of the wick so it stays where it is supposed to when the wax is poured in the container.
Center your container on the wick target with the big target spot in the center of the container. Now, I have a secret to getting the wicks into the container. Use a drinking straw, cut about an inch shorter than your wick, to place your wick on the bulls eye. Place the straw over the wick, and hang onto the wick at the top. The straw gives the wick extra rigidity and stability to be placed exactly where it needs to be. Once the wick is placed, push down firmly to establish good adhesion to the glass, and simply let go of the wick and slip the straw off the wick. Isn’t that easy? Keep this straw with your wicks so it’s always available.
Warning Labels, Warning Labels, WARNING LABELS – For your protection and the protection of the people you are giving/selling the candles to, always, ALWAYS put warning labels on your candles. You can buy them from almost any candle supplier. You can also print them yourself, if you need to. This can save you from a law suit. We can never be too careful these days.
Pouring Your Wax – After the wax cools to where it’s cloudy, you are ready to pour into your wicked containers. I do not set a temperature degree for you to pour at, since each brand of wax is different and each climate has a different pour temperature. Some soy waxes get cloudy at 100 o and others at 130 o F. Depending on the brand and climate you have, watch it for the milky look it will get as it cools. Once it is cloudy but not slushy, you can pour. You want your wax cloudy and not slushy so that it still flows into the container when you pour. I recommend keeping your thermometer in the wax until this point and make note of how warm the wax is at the cloudy point. This way you will know what temperature the brand of soy you have can be poured at. Some suppliers will tell you the pour temperature of the particular wax you are purchasing. Some will not.
The reason you want to pour your soy wax at the coolest stage before solidifying is twofold. First, you won’t get tops that look all caved in due to shrinkage that occurs when the wax cools down. Second, it will solidify much quicker in the container and you won’t have to worry about bumping them or spilling them if they need to be moved. Also, it will help the glass not have those weird ‘wet spot’ looking marks on the sides. It really does make for a nicer looking candle all around. If you want to layer, this method works in your favor, also.
Pouring into Candle Containers – Make sure that the containers are at room temperature or slightly warmer before pouring the wax into the container. The wax will not stick to the edges and make funny marks on the sides of the candle, as it’s poured, when the container is at least room temperature. If you pour into hot containers, it will make the sides of the candle ugly too. Something as simple as having a lamp with a regular light bulb over your work space is perfect. When you pour your candle, aim for the metal wick clip in the center of your container. Try not to dribble or spill on the inner sides of the candle, those will show up. Also, don’t rest the pourer on the container while pouring. It makes for dribbling down the side of the candle and pour pot. Pour slowly with a small stream of wax, like pouring coffee into a cup.
Center the wick and place craft sticks on either side to keep it there. This is very important. Pull the wick gently to make sure it is straight. Keep checking as it solidifies in case the wick moves.
Cooling and Curing Candles – The candle should be allowed to cool and cure until it is room temperature all the way through before lighting; approximately 6 hours. The scent throw is at its best after about 2 weeks and will last well over a year. The two weeks gives everything time to mingle together. Think of it like home cooking, when you eat it the first night it’s delicious but the leftovers are even better! Some candle makers will not burn their candles until the 2 weeks is over, but I’ve always burned them right away. The choice is yours.
Hints and Tips – Sometimes you will notice a hole or crater around the wick of a cooled candle. This is when we get impatient and pour our wax a bit too early. If the wax is poured when it’s clear, instead of cloudy, it forms a top layer as it cools. The wax shrinks a tiny bit as it cools. The top layer ends up breaking when the candle shrinks, causing the holes and craters. This is why we wait till the wax is as cool as it can be before solidifying when we pour in order to get nice pretty tops on our candles. Another reason we get holes is if we pour our wax too fast, this causes a ‘wave’ of wax to rush in and there will be an odd indentation near the wick. It doesn’t affect the performance of the candle in any way. But it’s not too pretty. It doesn’t hurt anything and you can ignore the look, because, after all, it will be gone the first time you burn it. However, if the look bothers you, there are ways to fix it. You can take a blow dryer or heat embossing gun and warm the very top 1/8th inch of wax to melting and let it dry. It will smooth right out. Or you can heat up more wax and pour a 1/8th to ¼ inch layer over it.
Be sure to clip your wick to between 1/8th and ¼ inch long before lighting it each time. This ensures best performance for your candle. Before you relight the candle, reach in and break the wick off by bending it over. Where it breaks off is where the spent wick and good wick meet. Some times it’s only 1/8th of an inch long, some times it’s longer; that’s ok.
Now you know why I say candle making is Soy Easy!
Websites that are soy friendly:
Remember, the farther away a supplier is, the more shipping and handling you will pay. If a supplier has the cheapest price and is in Ohio, it may not be the cheapest total you pay. Play around with their shopping carts to get the shipping and handling first before ordering. These I have listed will tell you what the shipping is on your order before you place it and allow you to empty your cart if you decide not to buy with them. I use these suppliers most. They all have great customer service.
Click this link for the PDF version of Candle Making Made Soy Easy
Click this link for the Wick Target exclusive to Dancing Flames Soy Candles
How It All Began
Originally, candles were made from tallow, which was extracted from cattle and sheep fat. The tallow was melted in huge pots until it was a liquid, then it was poured over fibers of flax, hemp, and/or cotton, which were used as a wick. These candles were used in religious ceremonies as well as lighting for homes and night time travel.
During the Middle Ages, beeswax was used to make candles. These beeswax candles were made much like candles made with tallow. Beeswax was a drastic improvement from the tallow, but limited quantities were available, which made it expensive, limiting it to clergy and the upper class.
In colonial America, the early settlers discovered bayberry wax. They boiled the berries from the bay-berry shrub. This wax created a very sweet smelling and good burning candle; however the process of making the bayberry wax was very tedious and tiresome. It’s still done today. True bayberry candles are cost prohibitive so we tend not to buy them.
In the 18th century the whaling industry thrived, and as a result, whale oil was available in large quantities. Spermaceti wax was derived from the whale oil and was used as a replacement for tallow, beeswax, and bayberry wax. The spermaceti wax candle did emit a rather unpleasant smell, but the wax was hard enough to hold shape in the hot summer months.
Paraffin wax was introduced in the 1850s. Paraffin is a by-product of crude oil. Burning paraffin candles is like having a diesel engine in your home. They should never be used.
Now for the good news
A soy wax candle is entirely non-toxic and non-carcinogenic. Soy is a natural compound that needs no other chemicals added in order to hold fragrance or color. This is why when sniffing a soy wax candle, all you can smell IS the fragrance. The other chemicals are not there to compete with the scent or produce harmful fumes.
It should be noted that many soy candles are not what they seem to be. The law only mandates a small percentage of the wax to be soy-based in order to be called soy wax. Therefore many soy waxes are still mixed with paraffin. Making your own candles ensures premium ingredients.
Soy wax and its properties can vary manufacturer to manufacturer. Melting points vary. Some melting points can be as high as 160 degrees. The wax I use and recommend is a natural low point soy wax. I obtain it from different sources. This type of soy melts at 119 degrees. It can be used as a lotion and massage oil at this low melting point. It is also water soluble and with a little soap, comes out of most materials.
The best reason to make your own soy wax candles is because it supports the American Farmer.
Hi, I’m Cee Tindall. Welcome to my candle blog.
The purpose of this blog is to teach you, the candle lover, who wants to have non toxic illumination how to make your own soy candles.
There will be lessons on how to make your own candles and soy crafts. I will suggest items that I use.
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I’ve been a soy candle maker since 2004. I’ve literally made hundreds of soy candles. I love soy candles! I love making them, giving them away, creating new types of candles and mixing my own scents. I also love teaching others how to make them! I also LOVE to come up with new ways to use soy wax as a craft medium!
I’ve sold hundreds of candles and was in 4 stores, at one time. My farmers market booth was a regular around town for 2 years. I taught soy candle making classes at the community college and community centers before the economy gave out. As my business fizzled due to people not having as much money to spend on niceties, I ‘restructured’ the way I thought of my candle business and decided to blog about it and teach YOU, the interested reader, all my secrets of soy candle making!
Now I won’t lie, there ARE links here to some affiliate sites. I will make a small commission off of things you buy from them. But you can’t blame a gal for wanting to pay her internet bill, right? I won’t force you to click into the affiliate links. My commitment is to suggest the ONLY the BEST products. However, where you purchase your materials is up to you and I hope we become friends.
Did you know that only 5% of all candles are made with natural waxes?
Did you know that natural waxes don’t emit toxins when used in candles?
Did you know that soy is the least expensive natural wax to use in candles?
The soy wax used by Dancing Flames Soy Candles is 100% natural vegetable wax with no chemicals, animal fat or harmful petroleum additives. This wax does not emit harmful vapors when burned. Your home environment will not be compromised with fumes as you enjoy the soy candles you made.
The melted wax will not blister your skin, and spilled wax cleans up with hot water and soap.
Now you understand the Joy of Soy!